If you’re a poli-sci geek, you likely know the term, “October Surprise,” usually referring to news events that might influence a political outcome. I was thinking about the phrase lately—not because I’m a political junkie—but because I drank so many things this month that surprised me; wines to which I might not have given serious consideration that turned out to be pleasing; spirits that took a happy detour from the usual road, even wines from regions that were never on my radar.
And then, since it’s Halloween, there’s also the surprise of “trick or treat!” So, without further spoiler alerts and in no particular order, here’s what made the list on my October Surprise column, which might just be my new annual tradition. Because who needs another story about Halloween candy and wine pairings?
I’m still drinking rose! Surprised? Not me. Thanks to a warmer than usual October, there were ample days to enjoy a structured rose, whether on the patio or with seasonal fare (I did both!). Peyrassol’s “Les Commandeurs” (2022) from Cotes du Provence is a traditional GSM blend that’s light on its feet with baby strawberries and a tinge of tangerine, but also expresses a grounded earthy and herbal/anise/licorice note that works well with transitional menus. Made of the typical red grapes of the region with a couple of other native varieties thrown in, the signature chateau wine was a bit lighter—I might save a bottle of this for Thanksgiving when you’ll need a fresh palate cleanser between the heavy courses. The Clos represents the pinnacle of the estate, produced from a privileged parcel similar to a lieu-dit. This expression is more tropical-fruit-inflected with stone and orchard fruits but, despite its lighter hue, delivers a complexity and structure that brings this into fall drinking.
Malbec gets a makeover. Just when you think there’s nothing new to say about Malbec, there actually is. Terrazas de los Andes, a high-altitude producer in Mendoza’s Uco Valley, has a limited edition of “parcel” wines made from select estate vineyards more than 5,400 feet high in Gualtallary, in the Tupungato appellation. Packaged in a wooden box, the wines—there are four in the series—are elegantly presented and represent the producer’s interpretation of Grand Cru. My 2018 sample of No. 1E from the El Espinillo parcel was elegant drinking, too. This wine is all about a purity of black and blueberries, which shone, unadulterated by heavy oak influence (only 30% was aged in new French oak; the other 70-% was second-use barrels). This Malbec manages to be both deeply fruited and fresh, elevated by an evident streak of acidity that’s plays nice with the fruit and alcohol. Nothing is out of balance here.
A maritime malt enters the market. This summer, Old Pulteney launched a series of single malts in the U.S., with some unusual marketing, calling it a “maritime malt influenced by the sea.” Eschewing the expected Speyside or Highland references, this spirit instead leverages its proximity to the North Sea—indeed, calling the new line the Coastal Series—and aging in seaside barrels. The collection will eventually include four expressions to be released annually and this—Old Pulteney Pineau des Charentes—is the first and so named for the ex-Pineau des Charentes French oak casks in which it ages for some of the time. This expression has pleasing orange rind, sweet vanilla and sweet oak spices rounding out the bright, sweet fruit notes. Smooth and warm with a little hazelnut and finishing with just a tinge of briny minerality. The barrels hail from Cognac, an area whose climate is influenced by France’s Bay of Biscay, so this expression is sort of a marriage of Scottish and French maritime influences.
Spanish grapes find a new home in New Mexico. I was pleasantly surprised with the selection of wines from VARA, a producer in Albuquerque making wines from Spanish varieties. The grapes are sourced elsewhere and brought into the winery, where the brand says it pays homage to the connection between Spain and New Mexico. The Mencia was a darker interpretation of what I’ve had in Bierzo and Ribeira Sacra, with deep black fruits and an almost bitter-herbal bite to it, and that was pleasing. It went along with the tart, dry fruit profile and dry tannins. Served with salmon and with a slight chill. The Vara “Tinto Especial” blend also showed off red and black fruits with raspberry playing a key role and giving a Pinot Noir vibe with the fruit and an earthy nose. It was bright, with lots of verve—a smooth presentation. The Albarino (2021), labeled “American White Wine,” was redolent with lemon curd and saline—making my mouth water even before the first sip. And in the mouth, it did not disappoint! Medium bodied, creamy, richly textured, this was a satisfying wine with a delicious interplay of ripe yellow fruit, savory herbal undertones and a bit of a slated caramel finish.
Armenia wines get their own club. Armenia is just coming onto the radar for its well-made wines and gaining fans in the inner gatekeeper circles (keep an eye on this column for a report). But now it has its own club. Launched this month, the Storica Wine Club, created by a premier importer of fine Armenia wines, features three levels of membership: $120 for a selection of four wines, $160 for six and $280 for a case representing the country’s diverse styles (shipping discount vary).
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