Hailing from Mendocino, Minus Tide’s Sterling Ranch Chenin Blanc delivers a satisfying snap along with savory notes
This young winery in Mendocino has quickly become a favorite of mine. Nearly every of its wine I’ve sampled has been faithful to the variety—nuanced and not exaggerated, which is not always an easy thing to do when the New World meets Old World grapes.
This 100% Chenin from Minus Tide, made from old-vine grapes, offers a tinge of honey on the nose with wild and savory herbs in the undertow. On the palate, there’s present saline—a nod to the coastal location—along with a racy and fresh acidity. Muted yellow fruit, lemon curd and lemon tart all contribute to the fruit spectrum, keeping it on the tart side. Maybe a bit of quince, too. This isn’t a Loire Valley interpretation—not waxy or with a linen-like warmth—but it comes closer to a Chablis in its purity, elegance and electric snap. I enjoyed this with two completely different dishes on consecutive nights: first with a creamy rich Chicken Normandy (recipe here) and the second night, Mujadara with roasted sausage (recipe). That this wine was delicious with both speaks to its versatility.
Minus Tide was founded in 2017 by California natives Brad and Miriam Jonas, and Kyle Jeffrey, who met as students at California Polytechnic State University. Collectively, the two winemakers (Brad and Kyle) have worked harvests in Switzerland, Australia, New Zealand and California’s major AVAs. They focus on mostly dry-farmed sustainable and organic vineyards, and use low- minimal-intervention production—and that shows in wines that reflect place more than the hand of the winemaker, though the element of craft is not lost. The winery produces Carignan Rosé, Chenin Blanc, Chardonnay, Pinot Noir, Carignan and Syrah. The Sterling Ranch Chenin Blanc retails for around $32.
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