Wölffer Estate in Long Island, New York, started producing rosé wine in the early 1990’s when rosé wasn’t yet cool. But the move paid off, because they have been able to capitalize on the rosé renaissance of the last 15 years, creating one of the top selling premium rosé wines in the U.S. – ‘Summer in a Bottle.’
Likewise, Wölffer Estate jumped on the hard cider wave when it was just starting to rise, and – along with keeping many NY apple farmers from going out of business – they have created a very lucrative cider business. Now, they have just released the first U.S. ultra-premium, non-alcoholic, sparkling rosé wine ($20), called ‘Spring in a Bottle,’ and it is flying off the shelves.
So how does Wölffer Estate, established in 1988, manage to stay abreast of wine trends in an industry that is generally slow to change?
“We listen to our customers when they visit our tasting room,” explained Joey Wölffer, Co-Owner and Chief Brand Officer, in a Zoom interview. “We have lots of young people visiting on the weekends, and they tell us what they like.”
Wölffer Cultivates a Culture of Innovation and Collaboration
In addition to listening to younger customers, Wölffer Estates has developed a culture of innovation and collaboration. For example, they just collaborated with iconic Australian fashion brand, ZIMMERMAN, to create a limited-edition bottle rosé ($27) with bold patterns and textures, that quickly sold out.
“The fact that we are a family-run business allows us to be innovative more quickly,” said Marc Wölffer, Joey’s brother as well as Co-Owner and Chief Strategy Officer. “We can easily jump on new ideas and take a risk.”
Winemaker and Partner, Roman Roth, who has worked at Wölffer for the past 30 years and has won multiple awards for his wines, agrees with Marc Wölffer. “Many people in the wine industry are stuck with the concrete boots of tradition on their feet. Here at Wölffer we get to try new concepts.”
Indeed it was Roth who was able to collaborate with a German wine producer to help them produce the Wölffer non-alcoholic sparkling rosé. “It is made with organic grapes and produced by a family-run business in Germany,” said Roth. “Since this is a family business, we always try to work with other family-owned businesses around the world.”
The Wölffer executive team includes not only Joey and Marc Wölffer (their father, Christian Wölffer and winery founder, passed in 2008), but Joey’s husband, Max Rohn, who serves as CEO.
Further collaborative efforts include making rosé in Provence, and producing several different wines from Argentina and Majorca – all working in partnership with local family wineries.
The strategy must be working, because Wölffer now produces more than 175,000 cases of wine, 100 cases of cider, and spirits that are sold in major wine shops and grocery stores across the nation. They are also one of the largest employers on Long Island with 170 employees, and farm 55 acres of sustainably certified vineyards, under the leadership of Vineyard Manager, Richie Pisacano.
“Many of our employees have been with us for a long time. If you have good vineyards, craft quality products, and hire great employees, then you can get a good price for your wine,” said Marc Wölffer.
Joey Wölffer added: “We also hire extra people to help with harvest in the autumn. It works well, because many of the restaurants and hotels lay off people after the tourist season ends on Labor Day, so we hire them. It is a positive spiral and good for the local economy.”
So How Do Wölffer Wines Taste?
Though Wölffer Estates is most well-known for its many rosé wines from Long Island, Provence, and Argentina – which make up 72% of their production – they also offer traditional still wine varieties, such as chardonnay, cabernet sauvignon and many others.
Most of the rosé wines have an average price point of $25 per bottle, but may fluctuate based on vineyard location. It is fascinating to have the opportunity to taste through the different rosé wines, because they are distinctly different – showcasing the regions from which they came:
· Wölffer Summer in a Bottle Rosé from Provence: exhibits the delicate floral, peach and tangerine notes of Southern France
· Wölffer Summer in a Bottle Rosé from Long Island: lighter and more elegant in style with notes of fresh pear, melon, and a hint of salinity.
· Finca Wölffer Rosé from Argentina: more fruit-forward in style with baked apple, pear, and a hint of berries and hay.
· Wölffer Spring in a Bottle from Germany: one of the most delicious non-alcohol sparkling rosé wines on the market, brimming with floral, raspberry and peach notes.
The remainder of the wine portfolio is organized into 3 levels: 1) Gold Label series as elegant food-friendly wines with price points in the mid $20’s; 2) Cellar Series – limited release wines ranging from $24 to $32; and 3) White Horse Series as ultra-premium complex wines with prices ranging from $32 to $125, including Christian’s Cuvee in the $100+ luxury category, only produced during the best vintages.
Two outstanding examples, both which have a touch of savory Old World wine characteristics combined with the ripeness of the New World are:
· Wölffer Estate Cabernet Franc 2019 from the Cellar Series ($37): dark ruby color with classic notes of cassis and violets, along with earthy forest floor, sandalwood, and velvety tannins with a long finish.
· Wölffer Estate Christian’s Cuvee Pinot Noir 2020 ($125): garnet color with complex dried cherry, mushroom and spice is intertwined with toasted oak, vanilla, allspice, and a hint of savory herbs. Concentrated with silky tannins, and a long complex finish
Sustainability Efforts, Climate Change and Next Steps
Wölffer was one of the first wineries on Long Island to be certified sustainable by Long Island Sustainable Winegrowing. They had to pass a third party audit that included 200 farming best practices for environmental measures and equitable treatment of employees.
However, grape farming has become more complex on Long Island, just as it has in other parts of the world due to climate change.
“Here we worry about hurricanes, though our vineyards were only hit in 1991,” said Roth. “But with climate change there are no more perfect wine regions. Fortunately we’ve had some very good vintages, though we are now harvesting grapes two weeks earlier than before because it is warmer.”
One advantage to the Long Island climate is the sea breeze which helps to protect the grapes from too much humidity, and also imparts a pleasing complex notes of salinity to some of the wines.
When asked what is next for Wölffer, Marc Wölffer replied that they were considering expanding into other markets, such as parts of Asia and Australia. They are also open to expansion beyond wine, as they have already proven with their cider, gin and brandy.
“The most important thing though is to stay true to ourselves, and continually work on quality and customer satisfaction,” concluded Marc Wölffer. “Family is essential to us, and legacy is important.”
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