These wines are either made by iconic producers, icons in their own right or icons in the making.
With so many wine varieties and styles having a semi-official “day” (National Red Wine Day was a couple of days ago), it’s surprising no one has come up with wine holidays devoted to regions. So, today, I’m declaring this Italian Wine Day, which is pretty much every day in my house. Here’s a six pack of wines that are either icons, produced by iconic families or are icons in the making.
Podere Sapaio 2019, Toscana IGT. Sapaio is a relatively young winery, if you consider families like the Frescobaldis have been making wine since 1300. This youngster was founded by Massimo Piccin, a former engineer and Veneto native who changed careers to become a winemaker in 1999. Starting small, he nearly 100 acres over time, 62 of which are planted Cabernet Sauvignon, Cabernet Franc, Merlot and Petit Verdot. Spanning the municipalities of Bibbona and Castagneto Carducci, the vineyards are on clay, sandy and calcareous soils. Piccin takes a sustainable approach to farming, and says he combines technology and tradition, experimentation and authenticity. TASTING NOTE: Named for an ancient Tuscan variety, this is a full-bodied wine that underwent 18 months of aging in barrique and then another 12 in bottle. The blend of 70% Cabernet Sauvignon, 20% Petit Verdot, 10% Cabernet Franc from 25-year-old vines is made with organic grapes. At 13.5% abv, it’s not as heavy as it could be, and manages a high-toned and uplifted palate of crushed berries, elevated by spice notes, medium+ acidity and a fresh streak. Very smooth tannins. There’s a bit of bright earthiness on the finish, like a resin-y forest floor.
Tenuta Luce 2020, Toscana IGT. On one of the highest elevations in the hills southwest Montalcino, this 615-acre estate combines two greats in winemaking: Marchese Vittorio Frescobaldi and Robert Mondavi. Neither needs explanation: Frescobaldi is Italian wine royalty and Mondavi, by legacy and volume, the undisputed king of modern winemaking in California. The wine produced from this partnership is Sangiovese driven with some Merlot (217 acres devoted to these grapes)—modeled after the Super Tuscans, but with a distinct character belonging to Montalcino. (Indeed, it was the first such blending in Montalcino.) The logo for Luce—“light” in Italian—was inspired by the altar at Basilica di Santo Spirito in Florence’s Oltrarno neighborhood, a church dating to the 15th century, built on land donated by the Frescobaldi family. TASTING NOTE: Ripe dark cherry and red-fruited pastry, an almond and charred wood note. Mouth-filling tannins lean toward a modern style, with licorice, sweet baking spices and dark chocolate chiming in. Made from Merlot for roundness and Sangiovese for structure and aged in French oak. Long persistent finish keeps on giving. At 14.5%, you’ll want a full bounty with this.
Ornellaia “Poggio alle Gazze” 2021, Toscana IGT. Launched in 1985, Ornellaia has become a solid prestige brand in Bolgheri, thanks in part to its innovations: Le Serre Nuove dell’Ornellaia, Italy’s first ever second vin; the Ornellaia Bianco‚ somewhat of a rarity in the red-driven region; and other brand extensions such as the Vendemmia d’Artista project, which is the inspiration for an annual auction event. The estate grapes include Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot, Cabernet Franc and Petit Verdot, and white varieties include Sauvignon Blanc, Petit Manseng, Viognier, Verdicchio and Vermentino. TASTING NOTE: This is a Sauvignon Blanc-driven (76%) with Vermentino comprising 16% and the remainder evenly split between Viognier and Verdicchio. Aging in barrique, steel tanks (50%) and concrete vats (50%) gives this wine lots of roundness, also helped by six months on its lees—all resulting in a flavor profile that moves away from the super green versions of SB you’d find in the New World. Leans toward the tropical and exotic fruits, a lime overlay, with the Viognier contributing white blossoms and Verdicchio just a teeny tinge of greenness.
Sella & Mosca Marchese Villamarina Riserva 2016, Alghero Cabernet Riserva DOC, Sardinia. Somewhat surprising for an island vineyard, Sella & Mosca’s 1,600-acre estate is the second largest contiguous vineyard in Italy, with more than 1,200 acres under vine. It is sited on Sardinia with a mosaic of soils you’d expect in a mountainous terrain—granite, schist, sandstone and limestone soil—from an ancient geological upheaval. Between the hot climate, the strong winds and steep inclines, this is heroic winemaking. TASTING NOTES: This Cab comes from relatively young vines—11 years and is matured 18 months in French oak barrique (50% new, 50% second use), followed by an additional 12 months in bottle prior to release. The dark fruits you’d expect from a Cab are here: black currants and berries, along with some spice, leather bright cedar, iodine and some balsamic notes. Structured and balanced with intergrated tannins, this is no rough ride as some Cabs can be. The long finish is in it for the win.
Sella & Mosca Tanca Farra 2019, Sardengna Alghero Rosso DOC, Sardinia. An equal blend of Cannonau, one of Sardinia’s signature grapes, and Cabernet Sauvignon, this wine aged 12 months in a combination of second-use French barrique and neutral oak casks before aging three more months in the bottle. It’s a brighter-hued full-bodied wine with sparkly garnet glints, and the nose opens with purple flowers, mountain herbs and developing notes of leather, sweet tobacco and char. A spicy palate along with black cherry and raspberry packs a punch. Decant before enjoying with grilled or roasted meats.
Banfi Poggio alle Mura 2018, Brunello di Montalcino, Toscana. Banfi was founded in 1978 in a region known more for its rusticity than its fine wines. Banfi was a major disruptor, improving winemaking methods and introducing innovations. But many others followed, turning Montalcino into a fine-wine destination. It is known for its deep research into the Sangiovese grape and scientific soil studies to better understand the terroir. The Poggio alle Mura estate for which this wine is named features a historical medieval castle that has become the symbol of Banfi. TASTING NOTES: The signature wine of the estate is deep, opulent and dynamic. Chock-a-block with black and red fruits—cherries of both hues, all kinds of black: raspberry, currant and cassis, yet has a good mineral streak holding the line and preventing it from being a fruit bowl. Elevated by some kind of menthol or pine. Very long finish and a long life for this wine should you choose to cellar it.
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