In every wine region, winemaker’s philosophies and practices run the gamut from conventional spray-everything to biodynamic, regenerative agriculture and all things in-between. When the Washington wine industry launched the state’s first certified sustainable program for wine grapes, known as Sustainable WA, in May 2022, Red Mountain embraced the idea of a certification built for their needs. However, implementation is a slow process.
After over twenty years as an American Viticultural Area (AVA), many of the fifteen Red Mountain wineries understand the important of eco-friendly farming practices and that sustainability is the future, but like all regions, one-size does not fit all. “Washington wine is primed to go,” says Jason Gorski, winemaker of DeLille Cellars. “Sustainable WA gives us room to react when pressure happens. Red Mountain is a community. I don’t want to lose this communal aspect, but it’s time we grow up a bit.”
Chris Upchurch, co-founder of DeLille Cellars and winemaker and owner of Upchurch Vineyards believes all should practice sustainability to their best extent. “I ask farmers if they want to nuke their workers or have their kids in hazmat suits,” he says.
Upchurch Vineyard’s 18.5-acre site, situated in the southern tip of Red Mountain AVA, has been farmed sustainably using the Oregon L.I.V.E and Salmon Safe certifications since inception in 2007. He learned from his mentor, Washington wine pioneer, David Lake, that great wine is made in the vineyard. “Lake taught me to get in the vineyard, stay in the vineyard, and when I come out, go back in.”
Is great wine made in a vineyard where the soil is constantly turned over, tearing through the microbial community like a wrecking ball? Or with a non-existent microbiome because the soil is constantly sprayed with herbicides, like Roundup®, or pesticides?
Legendary grape grower, Dick Boushey, agrees. “The challenge is learning to farm more sustainable without inputs such as Roundup®.” Red Mountain’s harsh winters and dry climate eliminates many pest and disease pressures. Boushey believes in nurturing beneficial pests to combat pathogens and putting up with some damage instead of spraying at the first sign of distress.
Boushey explains in the early days, Red Mountain’s knowledge and training lagged in the vineyards and wineries. However, once graduates from the University of California Davis’s Viticulture and Enology School began arriving in the region things began to change. Today, the next generation continues the region’s evolution and they are more competitive than ever. While hanging their hat on Cabernet Sauvignon, Boushey is looking to hybrids as an additional sustainable solution.
“If you want to be sustainable, hybrids are the way to go. Lemberger, also known as Blaufränkisch in Austria, is winter hearty and blends well with Cab,” he says. This dark-skinned grape is also disease resistant with good yields, offers moderate tannins, and bright acidity. It can be made in a fuller-bodied style, or a lighter, softer wine.
Scott Williams, co-owner and winemaker of Kiona Vineyards has over ten acres of Lemberger planted in the estate vineyards. He has also found success with warm weather red grapes such as Sangiovese, Carménère, Malbec and Zinfandel. Additionally, Côtes de Ciel vineyard is cultivating thirty-six different blocs to experiment with grapes from Barbera, Cunoise, Charbano, and many Rhône varieties to determine their viability in the region. His son, J.J. Williams, general manager of Kiona Vineyards, questions the future of vintage specific wines as a means of sustainability.
USDA certified organic and Demeter Biodynamic® certification guarantees grapes grown without herbicides, like Roundup®, and pesticides, but are not necessarily sustainable. Growing a crop in an inhospitable environment requires an abundance of farming effort for success. Hedges Family Estate and Domaine Magdalena are demonstrating that marrying regenerative agriculture with biodynamics increases sustainably.
“I think the movement we’ve made to biodynamics is good for our region. It’s a bit more work, but it feels better. However, we do feel biodynamics should be local to each winery,” says Sarah Goedhart, head winemaker of Hedges Family Estate. General Manager Christophe Hedges understands each winery has to do what is right for them; however, his goal for the region to cease all toxic spraying. “Much of the farming done here is by people who don’t spend their weekends here. We believe the entire AVA should be non-toxic and hope all will at least stop spraying chemicals.”
Maggie Hedges’s Domaine Magdalena wines offer something different to the region’s full-bodied red wines. “The way we approaching farming and production of Domaine Magdalena – we are the Gamay (in style) to the region’s Cabernet. It’s a series of long-term decisions that make our wine,” she says. Sharing Goedhart’s sentiment, Maggie Hedges recognizes one-size does not fit all. She embraces the “friendly, collegiate” community of the region where there is room for all different practices and experiences.
“Farming biodynamic and organic is intense and I don’t agree all should do it my way, but I wish all would be sustainable. I’m happy about Sustainable WA helping meet people where they are and helping them make steps for the future,” she says.
Deciphering sustainability programs and certifications is as confusing for a wine drinker as ordering a Starbucks coffee, often leading to more questions than answers. So far, Red Mountain is home to two Demeter Biodynamic® certified wineries, and three Sustainable WA certified with more applications pending for 2024.
“Working together on common problems is key. It is all contagious.” says Dick Boushey.
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