Autumn usually ends up being a major season for bar and restaurant openings in New York and 2024 promises to be no different. Among a dozen hotly-anticipated arrivals, Crane Club might just be the most sizzling of them all. Literally.
The polished 200-seat eatery, opening in November, will showcase the woodfire specialities of acclaimed chef Melissa Rodriguez. And it occupies the same space she helped make iconic when it wore the name Del Posto. Just like back in those days, she is again teaming up with veteran general manager Jeff Katz. But this time around they’re also enlisting the nightlife know-how of Tao Group Hospitality—the folks behind some of the city’s liveliest clubs and restaurants. According to them, the convergence of their respective visions will result in a venue unlike anything that exists in the group’s vast global portfolio.
“This is the first time we are working with Jeff Katz and Melissa Rodriguez,” explains Tao’s co-ceo, Noah Tepperberg. “Having new industry veterans join our already deep bench is super exciting. It is also our first time working with wood fire which is a totally new type of cooking and very different from the more traditional kitchens we have built in the past 20-plus years of developing restaurants.”
In addition to an elaborate array of seared proteins, the space will feature a highly curated cocktail program and boast a wine list containing more than 1000 labels. All considered, the trio see this as their boldest venture yet. They tell us why in an exclusive interview below…
What inspired you when crafting the food menu at Crane Club?
Melissa Rodriguez: “Inspiration has always come in many ways. Often it’s a conversation about a great meal or your favorite dish your family may make, or an amazing ingredient you want to highlight. We are very lucky to have four seasons in New York and that often stokes our creativity.”
How do you and the team dream up dishes?
MR: “We have conversations about what we are most excited about seasonality wise, something that’s going to be popping up at the farmers market. We hold an open forum for all ideas and lean on collaboration. Ideas and execution come together most completely when we work as a group. We all thrive on collaboration and that includes the kitchen team as well as the dining room.”
Are there any unique elements or signature dishes on the menu you’re particularly excited about?
MR: “I’m really just excited to see what we are able to accomplish with all of our new kitchen upgrades. This is also the first time that I am not cooking within the guidelines of an Italian or French kitchen, which is equally exciting and daunting. It feels like taking my training wheels are off of my bike for the first time.”
What are some of the challenges this new project introduced, and how do you envision dealing with them?
MR: “Every restaurant has its challenges. In this one we’ve decided to center much of the cooking over wood fire. I have an incredible team of chefs, helmed by Georgia Wodder and Katherine Rock. We’ve been working together since back in the Del Posto days. And we’re all going to be working together on this new wood grill we had built in Spain. I’d say 75% of the menu will come from that grill in one way or another.”
How will the space look different in the front of the house?
Jeff Katz: “The dining room is about 35% smaller than it was in the previous incarnations. The room has less tables, and we’ve tried hard to create more intimate spaces. My favorite space is the new bar, it’s beautiful, dim, and moody.”
What can you tell us about that bar program?
JK: “We’re putting a lot of effort into our beverage programs, the wine program will have over a thousand labels, and is run by Catherine Fanelli, who opened Crown Shy with me, and ran the wine program at Al Coro. She has a great palate, and loves to teach. The bar program will be overseen by Chris Lemperle, who opened both Crown Shy and Overstory with me, and having just sat through his first tasting, we’re all looking forward to that first drink at the bar.
Can you tell us more about the cocktails, specifically?
JK: “Here, you’ll find an eclectic mix of drinks that range from contemporary interpretations to timeless favorites, with a few unexpected gems. Each cocktail is carefully curated through the present-day lens, infusing a distinctive flair while staying true to its core identity. Inclusivity is also at the heart of the menu, with most cocktails offered in non-alcoholic versions, ensuring there’s something for everyone. Lemperly will be working closely with Chef Melissa and her kitchen team: cross-utilizing ingredients the kitchen in some of his cocktails. His philosophy is simple yet profound. Flavor comes first. With a focus on maximizing the potential of each ingredient, Lemperle applies modern techniques to highlight and elevate every note, ensuring each drink is a memorable experience.”
You’re partnering with the Tao Group Hospitality for this project. What can you tell us about this partnership and the reasons behind it?
JK: “One of the most incredible things about this partnership is the amount of tenure the teams working on the project have with each other. Mel and I have been so fortunate to have a team that has worked together for over a decade. About 15 of us who have worked together non stop for a long time, and that’s an incredible foundation to open a new restaurant from. By comparison the Tao team makes our numbers look short, with a ton of 20-year Tao veterans involved with us as we get this project off the ground. I think that says a lot about how we both see our teams. They are our secret sauce, and we put a lot of effort into keeping them connected, empowered, and motivated.”
Noah Tepperberg: “Crane Club is a project I could not have helped conceptualize or build in my 20s or 30s. It is more sophisticated in many ways than anything we have ever launched and the type of venue that at nearly 50, I have always dreamed of owning. Its timeless and elegant décor coupled with inventive food and beverage offering and fun atmosphere is going to be the perfect place for someone like me that wants to go out and have fun but also is looking for a refined and exclusive experience.”
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